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The Wardrobe, Decoded
The costume the costume designer lost an argument about.
Ruth Morley is the credited designer, but the authorship is genuinely disputed. Keaton wore largely her own thrifted menswear; Morley objected on set and Woody Allen overruled her — "Leave her. She's a genius. Let's just leave her alone, let her wear what she wants." Ralph Lauren supplied the tie, vest and shirts, but Lauren himself said "Annie Hall was pure Diane Keaton… she had a style that was all her own." Keaton credited 1970s SoHo street women as "the real costume designers of Annie Hall."
Why we can't let it go
Annie Hall is the only wardrobe on this site where the person wearing it appears to have won an argument with the production. Keaton turned up in her own thrifted menswear, the costume designer objected, and the director sided with the actor.
The result changed how women dress, which is not an exaggeration. Oversized men's tailoring on a woman was not a look before this film and has never really stopped being one since.
And the reason it endures is that it's genuinely comfortable. Wide trousers, a loose shirt, a waistcoat, a hat. Nothing about it is restrictive, which was the entire point in 1977 and is still the point now.
01
The Layers
Anywhere, any weather
Shirt, waistcoat, tie — genuinely men's, and genuinely too big.
01Men's WaistcoatBuy the men's version. The wrong fit is the whole effect.BudgetSplurge
Buy menswear, don't buy womenswear that looks like menswear. The whole effect comes from the fit being genuinely wrong — a shoulder that's too wide, a sleeve that's too long.
The layers are shirt, waistcoat, tie, then jacket if you want it. All four is the full reference; shirt-waistcoat-tie is enough.
Trousers are wide, high-waisted and in khaki, olive or grey. Not jeans, and definitely not slim.
And the hat closes it — a black or dark felt hat with a defined brim. Keaton's version is what makes the outfit read as a decision rather than as borrowed clothes, which is a nice irony given they actually were borrowed clothes.
Written and edited by
Narek Avdalyan
· Updated 16 August 2026
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