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Eddie came home from a peacekeeping posting to a dukedom and a criminal enterprise, and he dresses like a man who was issued a uniform once and never quite stopped. The tweed is inherited; the discipline is his own. Here is how to build it.
Everything is estate uniform — tweed, waxed cotton, tattersall, moleskin — but it is cut close and worn straight, which is the whole difference between Eddie and the men his father drank with. Nothing is distressed for effect and nothing is new. The costume department dressed him in real British country labels rather than approximations, and the result is a man who looks like he belongs to the house rather than like he is visiting it.
Scene: The estate
01
Brown Check Tweed Jacket
Brown or fawn check, structured through the shoulder, flapped or patch pockets, and cut close enough to read modern rather than inherited. Wool tweed with a visible weave — the check should carry from across a field, not only from six inches away.
Find it on Amazon →
Scene: Outside
02
Waxed Cotton Jacket
Olive or sage waxed cotton, corduroy collar, four front pockets, finishing at the hip. Boxy rather than fitted — it goes over the tweed, not under it. This is the piece where the authentic brand earns its price, and it should look better scuffed than new.
Budget pick
Walker and Hawkes Wax Unpadded Benson Jacket for Men - Lightweight Wind- and Waterproof Canvas Jacket, Premium Waxed Cot
★ 4.2 · 645 reviews
Walker and Hawkes are a real British country outfitter, and this is the Barbour shape at a third of the price: olive waxed cotton, corduroy collar, four bellows pockets, tartan lining, cut boxy so it goes over the tweed rather than under it. Order Olive. It will look stiff and shiny for a season and then start looking right.
The real thing
Barbour
The jacket the production actually put him in. Barbour's Ashby is 100% waxed cotton with the corduroy collar and the four-pocket front, and it is the one garment here that is cheaper over ten years than replacing the copy three times. Olive, and it can be re-waxed rather than thrown away.
$415.00 at amazon.com →
Scene: Underneath
03
Tattersall Check Shirt
A fine check — tattersall or a small gingham — on cream or pale blue, in brushed cotton or oxford, with a collar that sits flat under a jacket instead of gaping. Country, not lumberjack: the check stays small and the colours stay quiet.
Budget pick
Tommy Hilfiger Men's Long Sleeve Oxford Shirts in Regular Fit, Men's Button Down Shirts, Also Available in Big and Tall
★ 4.7 · 266 reviews
Cotton oxford in a fine blue check, which is the country register without tipping into lumberjack. Button-down collar sits flat under a jacket instead of gaping, and at 4.7 stars it is the best-reviewed thing on this page. Strictly this is a small gingham rather than a true two-colour tattersall — close enough at arm's length, and the fabric and scale are right.
More options on Amazon →
Scene: At home
04
Shawl Collar Cardigan
Heavy gauge, shawl collar, in oat, moss or denim blue. Thick enough to stand in for a jacket and long enough to sit past the waistband. Wool or a wool blend — a thin acrylic one collapses at the collar, which is the only part anybody looks at.
Budget pick
Men's Casual Slim Thick Knitted Shawl Collar Cardigan Sweaters Pockets
★ 4.3 · 402 reviews
A genuine shawl collar with real bulk to it, in olive, for a third of what the Irish merino below costs. It is a synthetic blend rather than wool, so it will pill where the arm rubs the body — buy it if the cardigan is a texture in an outfit rather than the thing keeping you warm.
The splurge
Aran Crafts Men's Irish Cable Knitted Cardigan Sweater (100% Merino Wool)
★ 4.4 · 447 reviews
100% merino, cable-knitted in Ireland, and heavy enough to genuinely replace a jacket. Oatmeal is the colour that sits inside the palette. Hand wash only, which is the price of buying wool rather than acrylic — but the shawl collar still stands up in year five, which is the part that matters.
Scene: On the ground
05
Moleskin Trouser
Moleskin or heavy cotton corduroy in fawn, olive or tobacco. Flat front, straight leg, little to no break at the shoe. The fabric is the whole point: it should feel soft and wear hard.
Budget pick
Walker and Hawkes Men's Yorkley Moleskin Trousers, 100% Cotton Warm Durable Countrywear
★ 4.2 · 157 reviews
Actual moleskin, 100% cotton, from a country outfitter rather than a mall brand — the fabric is the entire point of this slot and almost nothing else on Amazon has it. Flat front, straight leg, beige. Only 157 reviews, which is under our usual floor, but moleskin trousers are a genuinely thin category and this is the correct garment.
More options on Amazon →
Why it works
Country tailoring goes wrong when it is worn as fancy dress: too much check, too many textures, elbow patches doing a bit. Eddie works because the pieces are ordinary and the fit is exact. One check at a time, one texture doing the talking, everything cut close to the body and short enough to move in. The palette is the land itself — moss, chestnut, fawn, oat — so nothing fights anything else and the whole outfit reads as one object. Buy fabric rather than logos: real tweed, real waxed cotton, real moleskin. They cost more once and then last a decade, which is rather the point of the look.
S
Written by Screenfits Editors, edited by Narek Avdalyan, who accepts that the waxed jacket only starts looking right in year three.
Questions people actually ask
What does Eddie Horniman actually wear in The Gentlemen?
English country tailoring, worn precisely. A brown check tweed three-piece with a matching waistcoat is his formal register; off duty it is a waxed cotton jacket, a tattersall check shirt, a heavy shawl-collar cardigan and moleskin or corduroy trousers, almost always in moss, chestnut, fawn and oat. The production dressed him in genuine British country labels — Barbour for the waxed jackets, Cordings for the knitwear, Ralph Lauren Purple Label for the sharper tailoring — which is why the wardrobe reads as inherited rather than costumed.
How do I get the look without bespoke tailoring?
Spend on fabric and fit, save on everything else. A real wool tweed jacket that fits through the shoulder and a real waxed cotton jacket are the two pieces worth paying for, and both improve with age rather than wearing out. The shirt, the cardigan and the trousers can be inexpensive as long as the colours stay inside the moss-to-oat range and the trousers break cleanly at the shoe. Get the tweed jacket taken in at the waist by a local tailor for very little; that single alteration does most of the work.
What ruins it?
Wearing all of it at once. Tweed jacket plus tattersall plus check trousers plus a patterned tie is a costume, not an outfit — pick one check and let the rest be plain. After that: novelty elbow patches, anything in black, a waxed jacket worn box-fresh and stiff, and a flat cap unless you genuinely own the field. Country clothes should look used. If everything is new, wear it for a month before you photograph it.
