Gangster in a three-piece suit
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Tweed and wool, buttoned to the collar, a cap pulled low over cold eyes. Here is how to build it.
Thomas Shelby's suits are structured and dark — three-piece wool, no tie half the time, top button always closed. The flat cap and the cigarette do the rest of the talking.
Structured shoulders, waistcoat included, buttoned to the top.
Knee-length, dark, worn over the suit.
The single most iconic piece — worn low, always.
Shelby dresses like the meeting is already won. Three-piece tweed, collar pinned, cap low enough to hide the maths he's doing. The wardrobe is armour with tailoring — heavy cloth, watch chain, nothing casual because nothing about him is casual. Get the waistcoat right and the rest follows. The razor blade is optional; the dead-eyed calm is not.
A dark grey three-piece in heavy wool, worn under a long overcoat with the wool flat cap. Birmingham tailoring as armour, by order of the Peaky Blinders.
Yes — tweed three-piece and overcoat is simply excellent winter tailoring. The cap tips it into character; deploy it knowingly.
Slim modern cuts and shiny fabrics. The cloth should be heavy, matte, and look like it's survived a race day.