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The Wardrobe, Decoded
Deliberately, aggressively not monotonous.
Marylin Fitoussi designs the show with Patricia Field as consulting costume designer. Field on the brief: "As fashion these days has become rather monotonous and boring (jeans, sneakers, etc.), it was the perfect opportunity to develop Emily's style as more colorful and optimistic." On the character's arc, the aim was "to slowly develop her in a bit of a more sophisticated and professional way without destroying her signature style."
Why we can't let it go
Emily Cooper's wardrobe is the most argued-about on television, and the arguments are the point. It's designed to be too much. Field said so.
The method is Patricia Field's, thirty years on from Carrie Bradshaw: collision styling, prints against prints, a hat that has no business being there, gloves in the afternoon. It's not aiming for chic. It's aiming for cheerful.
And the reason it works commercially — even when it doesn't work critically — is that every outfit contains one thing you could actually buy and wear. A beret. A checked blazer. A bucket hat. It's a wardrobe designed to be broken up.
01
Work
An office in the 1st arrondissement
Two prints, one bright solid, and something at the head.
01Bright Checked BlazerSaturated, boxy, worn over a clashing print.BudgetSplurge
Take one element, not the whole outfit. That's genuinely how this wardrobe is built — a beret, a printed blazer, a bright bag. Copying a full look is the failure mode.
If you do want the full effect: two prints, one bright solid, and an accessory that doesn't belong. Field's rule is that nothing should agree.
Colour is the actual signature. Fuchsia, chartreuse, cobalt, tangerine — saturated and combined without regard for whether they should be.
And finish at the head. A beret, a bucket hat or a headband. Every Emily outfit closes at the top, which is what stops it looking merely busy.
Written and edited by
Narek Avdalyan
· Updated 16 August 2026
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