Style File № 41

How to dress like Joan Holloway from Mad Men

Saturated wiggle dresses, a pen necklace, a defined waist and foundation garments nobody was ever meant to see.

Wiggle DressPencil SkirtWide Waist BeltSaturated ColourPen Necklace

1960–1970, Madison Avenue 9 pieces 2 looks

See the pieces
№ 41 Mad Men Built from the underwear outward. JoanHolloway Even the slip matched. 1960–1970, Madison Avenue 9 pieces Wiggle Dress · Pencil Skirt · Wide Waist Belt

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The Wardrobe, Decoded

Built from the underwear outward.

Janie Bryant constructed almost all of Joan's wardrobe from scratch, including the parts the camera never saw: "I made her bras because I always had her in a longline bra — a bra that comes down to the waist. I liked to make her bra and girdle match to her slip, which matched to her dress. Even if we didn't see it, it was important that she matched." Bryant on what the silhouette was doing: "I always thought of it as her sword battling against those men!"

Why we can't let it go

Joan Holloway is the most constructed wardrobe on this site — literally. Bryant built it from the foundation garments up, matching the bra to the girdle to the slip to the dress, on the theory that a woman who is that controlled on the outside is that controlled underneath.

The silhouette is unapologetic: nipped waist, full bust, pencil skirt to the knee. It's not a flattering-in-a-quiet-way wardrobe. It's an announcement.

And the colours are the opposite of every other character's. While Betty is in pastels and Peggy is in beige, Joan is in emerald, saffron, coral and violet. She's the loudest person in every room and she never raises her voice.

01

The Office

Running it, regardless of the job title

Nipped waist, pencil skirt to the knee, saturated colour.

01 Wiggle Dress Fitted through the bust and waist, pencil skirt to the knee. The single defining shape. Find it
02 Pencil Skirt High waist, knee length, no vent above the knee. The measurement is what dates it correctly. Find it
03 Fitted Knit Top Short sleeve, close through the body, in a saturated colour. Find it
04 Wide Waist Belt Cinched at the natural waist. Does the job if the dress won't. Find it
05 Pen Necklace Gold, on a chain — her actual signature, and nobody else's. Find it
Not picked yet

We haven't chosen the exact pieces for this look — but every garment above is described precisely enough to find. Open any one and we'll go and look for it.

Start with the wiggle dress
02

Evening

A restaurant, a hotel bar, an occasion

The same silhouette in richer cloth, with jewellery finally allowed to be big.

01 Cocktail Sheath Dress Emerald or violet, fitted, knee length, three-quarter sleeve. Find it
02 Structured Bra Longline where possible. Bryant was right — it changes the whole line. Find it
03 Statement Brooch Large, jewelled, pinned at the shoulder or waist. Find it
04 Pointed Court Shoe Mid heel, matched or contrasted deliberately. Find it
Not picked yet

We haven't chosen the exact pieces for this look — but every garment above is described precisely enough to find. Open any one and we'll go and look for it.

Start with the cocktail sheath dress

How to actually wear the Joan look

It stands or falls on the waist. A dress that skims does nothing here — you want it nipped, with the skirt starting immediately after. If the dress doesn't do it, a wide belt will. Wear saturated colour. Emerald, coral, saffron, violet. This is not a neutral wardrobe and toning it down is the same as not doing it. The skirt is a pencil to the knee, never above and never below. That single measurement is what makes it read as 1962 rather than as a modern bodycon. And the underlayers genuinely matter, as Bryant proved. A structured bra changes the silhouette of a fitted dress more than any amount of tailoring will.